van heusen



J. M. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED AUG-i5. I917. LSQQEFQB Patented July 8,1919.-

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

1 mien/w j. M. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 15, 1917.

Patented July 8, 1919.

mw sm 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

JQEN M. VAN HEUSEFAT, 9F JAMAICA I? i hSSAGI-IUSETTS.

CGLLAE ascents.

T all whom it may concern.

Be it known that 1, JOHN M. VAN Hansen, a citizen of the United States, residing at Jamaica Plain, in the county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars; and I do hereby declare the following to be. a full, clear, and eXact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to soft folding or turn-down collars which are adapted to be worn without starching and which will, nevertheless, have a suflicient degree of stiffness to make the collar self-supporting.

The common forms of soft folding collars, made up of individual layers of fabric sewed together, usually present a flimsy ap- 'pearance, and in order to improve their appearance, it has been common to embody stifl'eners of various kinds between the layers of fabric or to apply detachable stifl'eners to the collars when worn.

The present invention has for one-of its objects the avoidance of the flimsy appearance of the common soft collars, and the production of a collar which will have an acceptable degree of stiffness without undue rigidity, and which will be self-supporting without additional stiffening means app-lied thereto, or with a minimum of such added stifiening, so that it will simulate in appearance starched collars.

in constructing the collars of the present invention either the neck band portion of the collar, or the folding or turn-down portion of the collar, or both the neck band and folding portions thereof, are made of multi-ply fabric or of heavy single-ply fabric of suflicient body and appropriate iweave to impart stiffness to the' collar as a whole. The neck band and folding portions ofthe collar, when of the heavy or special weave fabric, is made as a separate piece of fabric and united with the other portion which goes to make up the collar; so. that, when both the neck band and folding portions of the collar are of multiqply fabric, these portions will be cut separately and united together;

Where the neck band of the collar is of the heavy fabric, this fabric is preferably of such thickness and weave that it will have suflicient stiflness to maintain its upright Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed. August 15, 191?. Serial No. 18$,252.

the common laundried and,

Patented July 8, i919,

position without starching so that it will serve to stifl'en and support the collar as a whole. By the use of appropriate multiply fabric, the entire neck band of the collar may be made of a single piece of fabric, cut

tend to fold along the line of increased flexibility thus provided. This portion of increased flexibility which may thus provide and determine, the fold line of the collar may be obtained in various ways; but it is preferably obtained by so weaving the multi-ply fabric that it will have a portion increased flexibility woven therein. 'Where this portion of increased flexibility is curvilinear, it may be made to conform to the fold lineof the collar, even where the collars are of different designs, shapes and sizes. That is to say, the curvilinear fold of layers of single-ply portion of increased flexibility may have such a degree of curvature that, when the fabric is folded along this line, it will have such a curvilinear shape that it will contribute tothe forming of the collar and to the permanent curvilinear set of the collar.

W here the outer turn down portion of the collar and'the neck band portion are bothmade of multi-ply fabric, united together near the upper edge of the neck band, both the neck band and turn-down portions will contribute to the support and stiffening effect of the collar as a whole.

in the preferred embodimentsof the invention, the thick and stiff fabric which goesgto make up either or both the neck band and turn-down portions of the; collar are of. multi-ply fabric, such as a three-ply interwoven fabric or a two-ply interwoven fabric having a filling interwoven therewith:

Such fabrics can readily be made'of Suficient body and appropriate weave so that they will impart a sufficient degreeof stiffness to the collar to obviate or minimize the necessity for additional stifi'ening means. Thus, whenthe neck band portion of the collar is of appropriate multi-ply fabric, it will tend to support the collar as a whole, so that the outer turn-down portion of the collar will tend to present a smooth and pleasing appearance. When the outer turndown portion of the collar is of the multiply fabric, it will likewise contribute to the stifiness of the collar as a whole and the collar will require a correspondingly less amount of stiffness in the neck band portion. i

The invention will be further described in connection with certain embodiments thereof illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 shows one form of completed collar embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view of the collar of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 shows one ofthe ends of the collar 'of Fig. 1;

. of and showing the collar fabric unfolded;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of a still further modified construction Fig. 7 is a perspective illustrating the weave which forms the fold portion of the collar of Fig. 6; and

Fig. 8 shows a piece of fabric from which the neck band and turn down portions of the collar, when of multi-ply fabric, may be cut.

In certain of the figures of the drawings the parts have been somewhat exaggerated for the purposes of illustration. The thicker fabrics utilized in constructing the collars have been shown as multi-ply fabrics, but it will be understood that the invention comprehends in its broader aspects, the utilization of either multi-ply fabrics or appropriate single-ply fabrics of sufficient body and appropriate weave and stiffness; but the multi-ply fabrics are to ,be recommended as more advantageous and generally better adapted for the collar construction.

The collar illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3, is made up of the neck band portion 1, of three-ply fabric,-and the outer folding or turn-down portion 2, of two layers of single fabric. Themulti-ply fabric which forms the neck band is shown as a three-ply fabric, but it will be understood that it may be of other than three-ply weave, for example, a two-ply weave such as hereinafter referred to. The neck band may be bound at its lower edge, and at its end tabs, one of which is shown at 3, in any suitable manner. The binding shown in F igs. l to 3 is made by folding over the edge of the multi-ply fabric and laying a binding tape 5 thereon and securing this tape in place by two rows of stitches 6, one of which passes through the turned edge of the fabric, and the other of which passes through the binding tape beyond th turned edge.

I The upper edge of .the multi-ply fabric which forms the neck band may be secured to the single-ply fabrics of the turn-down portion in various ways, but the illustration of Fig. 2 shows these single fabrics folded in, one on each side of the neck band, and stitched thereto by one or more rows of stitches 4. The union of the single plies with the multi-ply fabric should be such as to form a binding for this edge, unlss it is a selvage edge, and various ways o= attaching the outer turndown portion will be apparent, whether the multi-ply fabric has a selvage edge or is cut with an unfinished edge. The lower edges of the turn-down fabrics are turned in and stitched at 7.

In the modification of Fig. 41, the outer turn-down portion of the collar 9 is made of two-ply fabric and is provided with an extension 10 located. beyond the fold line of the collar and secured tov the fabrics 8 which form the neck band by' one or more rows of stitches 11. These neck band fabrics are turned in at their lower edges and similarly stitched at 12. The lower edge of the turn-down portion of the collar may be bound by means of tape 13 and two rows of stitches 1 1 in a manner similar to that above described in connection with Figs. 1 to 3.

In order that the collar of Fig. 4 may have a well defined fold line at its upper edge, the fabric which forms the outer turn-down portion of the collar can be so woven or constructed that it will provide a portion of increased flexibility. A suitable construction of fabric is illustrated in Fig. 5 wherein the twoply fabric is made up of the outer layers of fabric 15 confining therebetween the filling threads 16, the whole being interwoven intoan integral fabric. The filling threads are omitted at 17 and the interweaving is interrupted at this point so that there is provided a portion of the fabric having the two plies unconnected with each other. The line along which the fillingthreads are omitted will form a natural line of increased flexibility so that the fabric will fold more easily at this point than elsewhere. By making this fold line of appropriate curvilinear contour and arranging it at the upper edge of the collar, the collar will thereby be given an appropriate shape and the collar will tend to fold at the proper place and maintain its shape when laundried and when in use.

In the construction of Fig. 6, both the neck band portion 18 and the folding or I l l turn-downportion' 19 are of multi-ply fabric, the neck band beingshown as of twoply fabric, and the turn-down portion of three-ply fabric, and a suitable binding tape 23 being provided to complete the binding of the edge of both the neck band and turndown portions. The turn-down portion 19 of the collar has an extension 20 arranged beyond the fold line of the collar and has a weakened portion 21 which provides a natural fold line.- -The three-ply fabric may thus be woven in the manner illustrated in Fig. 7, wherein the two outer plies 25 are continuous and the middle ply 26 weakened by omitting certain of the longitudinal or I warp threads during the weaving operation and by omitting the interweaving where these warp threads are omitted. The fabric is thus provided with a weakened fold portion or a portion of increased flexibility which, when of proper curvilinear contour, and arranged at the upper edge of the collar, forms a natural fold line for the collar and contributes to the permanent curvilinear set of the collar.

If the edge 20 and the upper edge of the neck band 18 are finished or selvage edges, they may not require any added binding but may be stitched directly to each other without adding binding. Where these edges are not salvage edges, or where it is desired to conceal the edges of the multi-ply fabric, suitable binding tapes 22 may be placed over the edges of the -multi-ply fabrics and the tapes and fabrics secured together by rows of stitches 24. w

The multi-ply fabric may, in some cases, have its fold line in the form of a straight line, but it is more advantageous .to weave the fabric with a curvilinear fold line of increased flexibility or of appropriate weave to give a well defined line along which the collar will tend to fold. A weakened fold portion or a fold line of increased flexibility .may thus be woven in a curvilinear fabric so that the fabric as a whole and the fold line woven therein will be of curvilinear set.

A piece. of fabric from which both the neck-band and turn-down portions of the collar may be cut is illustrated in Fig. 8, the fabric 27 as a whole being woven with a curvilinear shape onset and having a fold line of increased flexibility woven therein at 28. By then cutting from one side of the curvilinear fabric the folding or turn-down portion 30 and from the other side of the fabric the neck band portion 31, and by arranging the fold 28a proper distance from the edge of thefabric to leave an edge 29 corresponding to the edge 20 of Fig. 6, and

-. the edge 10 of Fig. l, the two pieces of fabric may be sewed together in the manner illustrated in Fig. 6 and the collar will then" be completed except forthe binding and button holes. These two pieces which thus make up the neck band and turn downportions will moreover have selvage edges where they are joined together, so that these edges will present a finished appearance without added binding. Where the edges are not selvage edges, as where the neck band and turn-down portions are cut from the intermediate portions of a multi-ply fabric, suitable binding .may be provided, as above described.

l fith the curvilinear fold line 28 provided in the fabric of Fig. 8, this fold line will correspond to the fold line 21 of Fig. 6 and Fig. 7, and will form a natural fold line for the collar. By making the fold line of appropriate curvilinear contour, and by them utilizing this fold line as the fold line of the collar, the collar will tend to have, when folded, the desired curvilinear set and shape such as will correspond to the shape of the usual built-up collar.

lit will be understood that the multi-ply fabric may be made of different kinds of material and of different thicknesses so that it may impart varying degrees of stifiness to the collar in accordance with the desired collar construction; it will also be understood that the diderent layers or plies of the fabric may be made of different materials so that a finer or more expensive material such as silk will form the outer ply of the collar and a less expensive material the other plies.

The fabric may also be of difi'erent colors or designs and the collar may, in certain cases, be made reversible so that it will present the same or a difierent appearance on the opposite sides. p

The invention is one of marked simplicity inasmuch as it requires a minimum of ma chine operations for the collar construction. The various types of multi-ply fabrics may be produced on looms of appropriate construction and operation ina manner which will be readily understood by those familiar with weaving operations. The curvilinear weave illustrated in Fig. 8 may be obtained by feeding the warp threads on one side of the fabric faster than on the other so that one side of the fabric will be actually woven longer than the other, and so that the fabric as a whole will have a curvilinear set and the fold line woven therein will have a corresponding curvilinear contour.

The collar of the present invention is intended primarily as a soft collar, to be worn without starching; but it will be evident that it is available for use as a starched collar, where'such a collar is desired; and, when so used, the inherent stifiness of the collar itself will supplement the stiffening effect of the starch. Less starch will thus be required to give to the collar a. certain stifi'ness, while a thinner and less stifi' fabric may be used, when the collar is to be starched than when the collar is to be worn without starching.

What I claim is:

1. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion secu'red together at the upper edge of the neck band, one of said portions being made up of an'integral heavy fabric of appropriate thickness and weave to give stiffness to the collar, and of appropriate shape to give form to the collar; substantially as described.

2. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck ,band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, one of said portions being of nulti-ply fabric of appropriate thlckness'and weave to give stiffness to the collar as a "whole and of appropriate form to give the desired shape to the collar; substantially as described.

3. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, the neck band portion being a single unitary fabric of appropriate thickness and Weave to impart stiffness to the collar as a whole, and having a shape which will give the desired shape to the collar, the upper edge of such neck band conforming to the upper edge of the collar and forming a natural fold line therefor; substantially as described.

i. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, the neck band portion being of inulti-ply fabric of appropriate thickness and Weave to impart stiffness to the collar as a whole, and having a shape which will give the desired shape to the collar, the upper edge of such neck band conforming to the upper edge of the collar and forming a natural fold line therefor; sub.- stantially as described.

5. A folding or turn-down collar made-up aeoasae turn-down portion, both of said portions being of multi-ply fabric and being united together at the upper edge of the neck band and the folding portion having therein a fold line of increased flexibility conforming v to the fold line of the collar; substantially as described.

7. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, the folding or turndown portion being of multi-ply fabric and extending overthe top of the collar and united to the upper edge of the neck band, said turn-down portion havin Woven therein a curvilinear fold line of mcreased flexibility conforming to the fold line of the collar and contributing to the permanent curvilinear set of the collar; substantially as described. I

8. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion, a folding or turndown portion, both of said portions being of multi-ply fabric and being united together at the upper edge of the .neck band, and said turn-down portion. having a curvilinear fold line of increased flexibility woven therein,

and arranged at the upper edge of the collar to form the edge fold therefor; substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

JOHN -M. vAN HEUSEN. 

